Day 19

"The pump is ordered for cooling the controller, I will need to remove the heater core in the ute as it leaks. The plan so far is to pump the water/coolant though the air con radiator at the front of the ute though the controller to the heater core (inside the ute) and then back to the pump ( I may put a 100 watt water heater in the line for a bit more heat if needed )
(edit: I was told that I will need two pumps and circuits as the heater will need 80 c to warm the ute so that half will be done later )

Day 17

So far I got the welding done but I still have to sand and paint the chassis in places( the dirt was on the metal for a long time and that meant the dirt kept the moister on the metal giving the rust somewhere to start) I have made the decision to remove the power steering pump and later I will replace it with manual steering.

As for the vacuum for the brakes I will use the alternator/vacuum pump with a oil feed to the pump to keep it lubricated (as the oil goes out of the pump it will go into a container with a small amount of pressure to push it out to the pump again )and because I am connecting the belt to drive the alternator/vacuum pump I may as well use the alternator to charge the 12v battery.

The pump is ordered for cooling the controller, I will need to remove the heater core in the ute as it leaks. The plan so far is to pump the water/coolant though the air con radiator at the front of the ute though the controller to the heater core (inside the ute) and then back to the pump ( I may put a 100 watt water heater in the line for a bit more heat if needed )

I will put the controller in the ute this week and I will get the motor and gearbox back this week to so it will be a full on week
The rules say that I must be able to kill the power between the motor and the controller if any thing goes wrong so I have arranged for a emergency disconnect (not that I will use it because when the key is turned off the relays will kill the high voltage and then there is the foot on the clutch and take it out of gear) in the form of two Anderson 350 amp connectors with four 95mm2 cables (2 + and 2 -) all I need to do is find where to put the pull cord.
After a lot of thinking ( which will be my downfall )I am a little closer to how the batteries are to restrained I have always been going to strap them in groups but that's not the problem its when they are all in the tool box how do you hold them down without using steel ( and risk shorting out to the tool box) the answer is to put ply wood or thick plastic on top of the sets and then clamp that down with tie-down or something

Day 10

Day off today
I am going to use this tool box for the batteries 8 rows of 6 batteries each set of 6 will be strapped together and then they all will be held down ( just how is a mystery as there is live wires in there so steel marginal ) I am going to put the wires out the back and as I need to have a disconnect for certification ( I need two splits to have 3 packs of 60v or less )I am going to use two Anderson connectors as seen on diy ev it will come off the battery thru the connector loop around back thru the connector onto the next battery so if I pull the loop it will kill the power as it pulls the connector apart.

Day 9

I took the fuel tank and lines off today,cleaned out the dirt in hard to reach places and did a really good steam clean so it look good now,I found a couple of rust holes to fix ( 30 min work) so I will do that on Monday.

this is a spanner with 800amps@3.2 volts

(from a youtube clip)

I am putting in 47x 3.2v=150 v

I must be very careful and NOT drop the spanner!

Day 8

I got the electric motor,gearbox,and (after a decision at work) the clutch with the flywheel to the engineers to get them put together.
I did little in the way of removing stuff today I still have the fuel tank and hose to take off,the grill will come off so I can get at the air con hoses ( I have been blessed with the entry and exit being at the top and bottom of the air con radiator so that will become part of the controllers water cooling system)
Tomorrow I will take my 12v vacuum pump to see if it works well in the ute, other wise I will need to use the utes belt driven vacuum pump more mounting and pulleys to drain the power of the motor.
as for power steering I may use one off a toyota prius or mr2 as they are electrically driven ( if not put a pully on a 12v motor and drive it and a vacuum pump together)

Day 7

Undone the drive shaft this morning ,at lunch time I took out the last bolts and lifted the motor and gearbox out, another 6 bolts and the gearbox was off the motor, only to show an almost new clutch, now the decision to go clutch less is going to be a lot harder I think i will get a quote for the adapter plate, with or with out the clutch to see how much extra cost is involved.
The Ute needs a really good clean so all going to plan on Saturday I will put the Ute outside and lift it up as high as the jacks will go put the axle stands under so I can steam clean every thing !

Day 6

Took the wiring off the motor and as it is a column change I needed to remove all of the linkages so they would not get broken when the motor comes out, I drained the gear box and was happy to see clean oil in it (the sump plug has a magnet in it to collect any bits of  lose metal in the gearbox and that was not clean but what was there was small and due to normal wear )

Sweet wants to drive the ute so I may have to leave the clutch in but i have a few days to decide if I want to have the extra weight and cost for her to change gear when she could use just put it in third and drive.

 

Day 5

I took out the radiator today, removed the fan and exhaust also drained the diesel tank ,managed to get the power steering pump off it was being difficult and then I had to hurriedly eat my lunch and go back to work.

I am going to remove the air con,I will use the air con radiator to cool the controller and I noticed that the heater has been disconnected which makes me think it has been leaking so I will need to check it out as I had planed to use it ,

mined you if i just use the heater coils to cool the water for the controller  I can buy a 12v  hair dryer from aus for $100 nzd then again that is spending money I don't have spare.

Day 4

Gave the Ute a steam clean this morning, put the Ute inside and started to disassemble, time available was limited so I took off the bonnet, air cleaner and drained the radiator.
I am in two minds as to whether I keep the air con, if I do it will need to be driven of the drive motor and i am not keen on doing that .
being a diesel the brakes vacuum comes from a vacuum pump mounted on the back of alternator now do I keep it and use the vacuum and the alternator or do I use the 12 v vac pump I have already have for the bedford, I know one thing I will need to keep the heater its to cold to not have one.

Day 3

The ute
other than needing a clean and a 30 min rust job it is in good condition

 a good steamclean/pressure wash tomorrow and then start on the engine removal

Day 2

THE MOTOR

warp 11 (11 inch diameter ) the specs where good 135lb of torque at 72v with a price to make your hair curl and i have had it for to long I think i paid about $4000 

I could have gone smaller but I had bought it for a 2140 kg J1 bedford so it is going to be over kill in the ute .

Please keep in mind that I have gone to the extreme as I have made it to take anything i can put it thru I have a friend who has made the whole car (Subaru running gear),kitset controller ,batteries and a second hand 11 inch fork lift motor for under $10,000 nzd

the warp 11 can handle a max of 170vdc and about 500 amp for 5min ( I am still looking into what is the max amps it can handle )

As for the mounting i am going without the clutch as i don't need it ( petrol and diesel car motors don't stop when the car stops electric motors do)

Day 1

after a few years of research I have begun to build an electric vehicle and after two years(saturday mornings ) of rust removal I am still no closer to starting so the decision was made to get a ute for now and carry on doing the rust on the J 1 Bedford. so here we go!

the batteries

I had taken a long time to get them because I wanted to get a firm "Yes" in my head 

the choose was lead acid deep cycle batteries 

24 x 6v (220ah) batteries with a 2 year life high internal resistance (as the power goes through each battery some power is lost as heat so i will lose some of the capacity with lead acid it about 50% )

and to top it off they weigh 720kg 

so 24x6v= 144v(220ah/2=110ah) 144x110=15.84kWh  $6000 nzd every 2 years

OR

lithium 47x3.2v(90ah Only went this low to lower the cost)=150v lithium has a very low internal resistance (good)

it also has less weight only 141kg 

so 47x3.2v=150x90=13.5kWh  $8500 with a 10 to 12 year life and the are 579 kgs lighter !